The Town of Hudson Bay is located at the junction of three rivers: the Etomami, Fir and Red Deer rivers. The Etomami flows north from the Porcupine Hills, the Fir flows south from the Pasquia Hills, and together they empty into the Red Deer River, curiously almost in the exact same location. From this central hub, you can visit an often overlooked but beautiful and fascinating region with several ecological reserves, recreation sites and natural points of interest all within a short drive.
Before my internship in Hudson Bay, I would visit the area several times a year on fishing and camping trips in the hills, so I was more than excited to spend a summer living and working in the area. Knowing the lay of the land helped me transition into my job more comfortably, but it did not change my mind that the hills are a challenging and rewarding place to explore. While some places are easy to get to, some take a little time, preparation and an adventurous spirit.
Here are some of my personal favourite things to do and trip ideas, all accessible with Hudson Bay as your base camp:
1. Hike the Rice River Canyon
A major drainage basin of the north end of the Pasquia Hills, the Rice River cuts a deep and wide valley that feels more mountainous than anywhere in a prairie province should. The hike to the river fork is only about 9 km, but much of that is spent traipsing over boulders and rushing water that can be quite challenging. Go when water levels are low, or prepare to camp a couple nights to really enjoy it.
2. Visit the Fort Livingstone snake dens
Not for the squeamish -- the hibernaculum at Fort Livingstone writhes and crawls with Plains garter snakes every May, typically in the week before and after Mother's Day. While the snakes are rather preoccupied, watch for them falling out of trees or rolling downhill in tangled clumps. After you leave, you'll think you see snakes everywhere.
3. Find the "Mountain Cabin"
I don't know the actual story behind this, but I heard about an old gold prospector's shack built into the valley wall of the Bainbridge River, right at the northeast tip of the Pasquia Hills. Whether or not the history is true, I can confirm—there is indeed a shack there, but you need to hike some hills to get to it. On the way, you'll see the Mountain Cabin recreation site, and some scenic viewpoints of the Saskatchewan River Delta.
4. Go stream fishing for naturalized brook trout
The Etomami and Fir Rivers are stocked annually with brook trout. But there are many more streams nearby that have naturally reproducing trout from stocking efforts dating back over 30 years. These streams shall not be named! But seeking them out on your own can be a lot of fun.
5. Drink from the spring at Parr Hill
A fresh, clear water source can be difficult to find in the hills, but the spring near the Parr Hill Lake is always there to refresh weary hikers. A short walk from the Parr Hill campground and you can actually see the bubbling aquifer that feeds the small creek.
6. Hunt for fossils and rare plants
The unique geology of the Pasquia and Porcupine Hills - part of a larger continental feature known as the Manitoba Escarpment - carries a rich history in walls of shale and rocky riverbeds. Marine fossils are abundant, like the pictured rugose coral fossil in limestone – a species that went extinct roughly 250 million years ago. Major finds such as the 92-million-year-old crocodile named "Big Bert" have been discovered along riverbanks as well. Rare plants such as the dragon's mouth orchid (Arethusa bulbosa) or linear-leaved sundews (Drosera linearis) can also be found in some protected areas where they occur in uncommonly high numbers.
7. Paddle the Red Deer River
With only a short window after the spring melt or heavy rains, the Red Deer River can be paddled from Hudson Bay all the way to Red Deer Lake in Manitoba. With a healthy mix of rapids and restful stretches, you get to see the transition from agricultural landscape to the Overflowing River Lowlands, a remote and forested area also known for its deposits of silica sand.
8. Camp the backcountry
Flat out, my favourite thing to do in the Pasquia-Porcupine Hills is to hike upstream and camp where few people have been for years, decades or more. It is a large area and many places are difficult (or frustrating) to reach, but the experience is always worthwhile—especially with good company.
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